09-15-2012 Agua Blanca Creek

Cobblestone Mountain

There is already a couple of blogs that document my latest hike. Check out Craig's and Eldon's accounts.  Both are better writers than I am. If you want the nutshell version of the story, I’ll try to be succinct. If you don't feel like reading this do yourself a favor and skip down to the bottom and at least read the poem by Jim Clark.

Craig got contacted by the Forest Service about scouting Agua Blanca Creek. The FS had some sort of deadline they had to meet, so the trip had to be done in the summer heat. We would get the benefit of FS access i.e. we could drive past the locked gate at Tar Creek and drive almost all the way to Dough Flat ( two miles saved) and we would have access to the FS road that goes to Kester Cabin where AB and Piru Creek meet (a seven mile walk otherwise).

 Hiking in the heat

 I really wanted to do this hike, so against by better judgment I signed up. My reasons for going? Well I’ve tried to find Saddle Skirt Camp twice before with no luck. Also, I would especially like to get to Cove Camp. Cove is one the most remote campsites in the entire Los Padres. I would like to be one the few people who have been there. And if we made it to Log Cabin Camp it would mean I have hiked from the 33 all the way to Piru (over various hikes). My reasons for not going, the heat. Hiking in the Los Padres in the summer is miserable. If you can’t find water, you’re going to have a bad time. I was assured that there would be water in the Agua Blanca once we reached Ant Camp. I kept my eye on the weather forecast as our trip approached. The high temps were predicted to be 97F. I told Craig we were all going to die, but I didn’t back out.

Squaw Flat

The Bucksnort Juction

When we got started hiking from Dough Flat it was already hot. How hot was it? It was so hot the trees were looking for shade. I’ll be here all week, folks. When we made it to Squaw Camp (45 minutes from start) we had to take a break. When we got to Bucksnort Spring, Craig was overheating, and I was beginning to question the sanity of going further. But it’s all downhill after you reach Bucksnort, and there was that promise of water at Ant Camp. After a good rest we hoofed it down to Ant Camp. I got there first and immediately grabbed my water filter and headed to the creek. All I was thinking was, "Please let there be water, please let there be water." I got to the creek and... it was bone dry. This was not good. The creek bed was sun-bleached, there hadn't been any water here in a while. I was so angry at the Forest Service for sending us on this fucking trip. I went back to the camp and told the others the shituation. Between the six of us we had 3 litres of water, also not good. Ned said he would look upstream for some water and Nico volunteered to go down stream. Ned came back shortly and said he found a patch of damp ground that we might be able to dig out for some water. About two hours after he left Nico returned... with water! He told us he had found a nasty puddle some ways down creek. As a group we decided that this mission was over. Our only goal now was to get the fuck outta here. We would take this water, wait for night fall, and then head back to Dough Flat in the cooler temperatures of the early morning. Ned, Johnny and I went downstream to gather as much more water as we could. Just a bit past the old Tin Can Cabin site we found the water. It wasn't much, maybe inch or two deep, lots of bugs, but man I was glad it was there. The sun had gone down before we started back to camp so we had to find our way back using headlamps. When we got back to camp Craig made some food, but I just wanted to drink. We were all pretty tired, so we settled down for some sleep before the climb out. 

We got up around 1:30 in the morning. We packed up and headed out of camp and up the hill at 3:00. Around 4:00 we stopped and took a rest. As we sat there we watched meteors streak across the sky. This was the only enjoyable part of the entire trip for me. After that we slogged out the rest of the hill. The sun started peeking up over Hopper mountain as we making our way toward Squaw Flat. By the time we made it to Dough Flat it was sunny and hot as hell again. Craig and Ned took off to grab the vehicles and the rest of us rested in whatever shade we could find (or make). Soon enough Craig rolled up and we headed back to civilization. We stopped and got Mexican food and drinks with ice, lots of ice. After that we headed home. So to sum things up, this trip sucked. However, I will probably try it again some time in the future. It'll be at a time of my choice though, that's for sure.

And we're back at Dough Flat

Ned's dad, Jim Clark, wrote this fantastic poem about our adventure. Much thanks to him for this gem.

AGUA BLANCA

I’ve a tale to tell of a hike from hell,

Of hikers who truly know better;

Including son Ned, who ‘fore leaving said,

“It’s hiking, not riding mule weather.”

This hike’s a request, from Los Padres’ best,

To check out some trails and old camps;

Leader Craig Carey, responded fairly,

Let’s wait ‘til it turns cool and damp.

Replied headquarters, “those are your orders,

We need it ‘fore September ends;

In this fiscal year, your tale shall appear,

Though we shall pay you NO stipend!”

So gathered the crew, (the ‘fore mentioned two),

Plus Jonny, Eldon, Eric and Nick;

Craig writes books and blogs, Eldon, expat photog,

Jonny’s a teacher and takes pics.

Nick’s the best hiker, Ned, horseman, biker,

Eric blogs, “County Canyoneering”;

And this group, you’d say, on this year’s worst day,

Would choose not hiking, but “beering”.

Ninety-four the stat, when they left Dough Flat,

A thousand foot climb without shade;

Though Squaw Flat was dry, as Bucksnort drew nigh,

A cool spring sip they’d have it made.

The spring’s dried to scum, and all the six chums,

Scoffed choosing the creek down at Ant;

The Agua Blanca, fills the barranca,

And a pool awaits us extant.

By yuccas frizzied and heat stroke dizzied,

The last drops of water sustained,

‘Til camp where they saw, no pool in the draw,

Not a drop to drink ‘til it rained.

Ned checked upstream, just found a bad dream,

Of horse nettle and poison oak;

And so Nick carried, hopes of heat harried,

His five mates approaching sun stroke.

With two hours gone, the boys settled on,

Another fifteen minute wait;

‘fore leaving their perch, and starting in search,

Of the lost comrade and his fate.

Then Nico appeared, with better than feared

Reported a small sad bug pool;

They filtered his brew and then three set to

With filters and bottles and tools.

The tired scout confessed, the trail was a mess,

And Craig said “take flashlights to see”;

Off the three muddled seeking the puddle,

In the creek choked with willow trees.

A line was set up, Ned, using a cup,

Poured it into Jonny’s kerchief;

Screened out the jigglers, crawlers and wigglers,

And Eric had the filter brief.

With all bottles filled, an hour uphill,

Through brush, willows and poison oak

Upstream they’re tramping, worn out and cramping,

And no place at Ant for a soak.

Then they saw headlamps lighting the home camp,

Craig heated freeze dried in a pail

Then the benighted, six zip decided;

To turn back o’er three Fat Tire Ales.

They left Ant at three, used headlamps to see,

Told Eldon, he’d better not fall;

They’re too tired to rescue, he’d be food for fescue

A condor feed fest free for all.

Back at the trail head, Craig Carey and Ned,

Drove Ned’s car back to Lake Piru;

Called Dispatch to say, that they were OK,

And asked them to tell Heidi too.

For she planned to seek, a meet in the creek,

With them near the end of their trek;

Dispatch dropped the ball, said nothing at all,

To Heidi about their train wreck;

To sum up I fear, the moral is clear,

A twice bitten hiker’s a fool;

Should he venture out, though wise horsemen shout,

“It’s too frigging hot for a mule!”

                                                                                     -Jim Clark

04-31-2011 Alder Creek

The Stone Corral and Topatopa Peak

I haven't been camping in a long time. I also haven't been on a really long hike in awhile. The weather has been good, so I thought it was high time to get out for an overnighter. Frank, Zach, Cara, and I decided to start out at my favorite trailhead, Dough Flat, and then make our way up to Alder Creek. The day before we left I called the Forest Service and asked them if the road was open all the way to the trailhead. They told me, no, it's closed at Tar Creek (a few miles from the TH) because of a three foot deep mud puddle in the road. Well that was too bad but it wasn't going to stop us. Actually I didn't tell anybody about the gate until we got to it. The closed road was dry, bone dry, of course (thanks a lot Forest Service).

Hopper Mountain

It took about an hour and a half to get to the Dough Flat TH. Half an hour later and we were at the Squaw Spring guerrilla camp. Another two hours and we were at the Bucksnort junction. Soon we passed Cow Spring and the Stone Corral.

The Stone Corral

The trail then descends down a large hill. About half way down the hill is Dripping Spring. This also marks the beginning of the poison oak. We ate lunch and refilled our bottles. Then we made our way down the rest of the hill. At the confluence of the Alder Creek East Fork and a no-name creek the trail becomes much, much harder to follow. Frank and I had been up this trail before, a few years ago, so we kinda knew where to go. Still finding the trail was difficult. Up and down hills, through dried up creek beds, across mesas, then up a poison oak lined creek.

Looking south over Alder Creek

Finally after eight hours of hiking we saw the giant Oak that marked our campsite. We didn't really have time to rest. We had to get our tents set up and gather some firewood before the sun went down in an hour or so. Once we got the campsite set up properly we threw a couple of Bristol Farms porterhouses on the grill and sipped Laphroaig 10 Year Old.

The morning was a bit chilly. But things warmed up once the sun was able to angle over the canyon walls. We packed up our stuff and got ready to leave this rather unremarkable campsite. Instead of going back the way we came, we opted to go down Alder Creek directly. I wore my Canyoneers and 3mm neoprene socks. North of the Sespe you will notice that rocks turn from mostly sandstone to a mix of sandstone and granite. The granite can be quite slippery when wet. My shoes preformed well beyond my expectations. Even with water flowing over the granite my shoes stuck to the rocks. Even with sound footing, all that rocking hopping with a heavy backpack can take a toll on your knees.

Alder Creek

The creek was pretty nice. The water was about knee deep in most spots. It did get up to my waist in one section. There was only one spot where we had to take off our packs, down climb some slick logs, and then lower the packs.

I think it took about two hours to get to the East Fork / Alder confluence. Then it was just a few minutes before we found Alder Creek Camp. Not much there but a fire ring and an old icecan stove.

Alder Creek Icecan Stove

Alder Creek II

There's another small camp a few hundred yards downstream. I don't know if this was an overflow camp at some time, or if somebody just dragged a grill down there from the proper Alder Creek Camp. Not to much further down the creek we found Shady Camp and set our packs down for the day. There was still enough light out to wash some clothes and get a quick bath in the creek. Refreshed we settled down for our second night.

Frank and Zach at Shady Camp. Frank is holding a rock breaker bar that was left at the camp

Looking south down the Alder Creek Narrows. It was a humbling view

The next morning we took our time packing up. The trail back crosses the creek several times. A some points the trail is the creek itself. We were able to keep our boots on and dry all the way back to Dripping Spring Hill.

One has to wonder, did the Day Fire stop right here?

Dripping Spring is a real life saver. Right now it's more than dripping, it's really gushing. The spring turns into a flowing creek that links up with the other creeks downhill. The slog up the hill wasn't too bad. Once we got over the peak of the hill it was a rather pleasant hike back to Squaw Spring Camp. There we made camp for the last night of this trip. The next morning we packed up one last time then headed out to Dough Flat and then the dry dirt road to Tar Creek.

Relaxing at Squaw Spring Camp

Dough Flat Waterfall

Okay, so somewhere along this hike there is a cave. Perhaps it was off in a narrow canyon, or down an old dusty trail, or maybe up a dry creek bed, I'm not saying. In this cave are Chumash pictographs. It's mostly zoomorphic figures, with some geometric shapes scattered about as well. Some are trichrome others are monochrome. In my amateur opinion I'd say that there were several different artists contributing to this cave. Of all the Chumash caves I've been to, this one is my favorite.

As always, I encourage you to leave a comment, or ask any questions you have.

11-12-2010 Agua Blanca Creek

Cobblestone Mountain Foothils

One of the more impressive geological features of the Southern Los Padres rivers are the narrows. It happens when a river that normally meanders through rolling hills cuts through a rock formation, creating a narrow slot. Some examples I know would be the Sespe Narrows below Devils Heart Peak, and again further south at Devil's Gate. There's also The Alder Creek Narrows, and Piedra Blanca Creek has a narrows section. Agua Blanca Creek has two narrows sections, The Devil's Gateway, and The Big Narrows.

Dave Stillman contacted me recently to see if I was interested in checking out The Big Narrows. I knew it would a tough, probably nasty hike. So I signed up, and recruited Frank to come too.

We decided to make it a three day trip. Friday morning we hiked from Dough Flat to Ant Camp. Ant Camp sits at the base of Cobblestone Mountain where Agua Blanca Creek turns east towards Piru. It only took about three hours to make the trek. The trail is great condition. Someone, maybe the CCC, has recently trimmed, and flagged the trail going down the big hill that leads to Ant Camp. I tip my hat to whomever did that hard work, thanks. Once down at Ant Camp we set up our stuff, collected water, and gathered wood in anticipation of some cold nights.

Ant Camp

We also set up the horseshoe stakes to standard distance. Now you can enjoy a nice game of horseshoes next time you go down there. It was a pretty brisk evening, but the fire was large, and kept us warm until we ready for bed.

Trying to stay warm

The next morning we woke up a prepared for the difficult challenge we were expecting. We started heading east along side the creek at about 8:20. The trail isn't too bad for the first mile or so. We saw a few spots that would make fairly descent campsites in a pinch. There used to be a campsite called Tin Can Cabin down here. We made a good effort to find some sort of trace of it, but I'm afraid that all signs of it are completely gone now.

Looking for Tin Can Cabin

The trail got steadily worse the further we went. The poison oak was ubiquitous as expected. There were also those nasty, thorny vines everywhere too. Tons of fallen trees blocked the way. Sometimes the only way through was to slog through the creek.

After about three hours from the start the canyon started to zig-zag, and really narrow, aggressively. Finally we got to a point where you could no longer skirt the edge of the creek, we were entering The Big Narrows.

An ominous looking rock formation

Entering The Big Narrows

The walls squeezed to about ten to twenty feet wide, and rose 500 to 600 feet high. Frank and I removed our boots, and put on the water shoes we had brought with us. The water was 49.5 Fahrenheit. I wore heavy wool socks with my shoes, but my feet were still freezing. Frank had better luck with neoprene. The creek turned north then sharply came around a corner and headed south. We stopped in that section and had lunch.

If we had decided to continue I think we would have made it to Cove Camp in maybe another hour, who knows? But, we decided that we had gone far enough. We had been hiking for about four hours. I figured that since we had been going down stream it would probably take us longer to get back to camp. But I was wrong. We bulldozed back to camp in only three hours. We gathered a little bit more wood for the evening. Then we focused on dinner. We traded some stories around the fire, and then headed to bed.

The next morning we gathered up our stuff, cleaned up the camp a bit. The last people there had left behind some trash like tin foil, bottle wrappers, and batteries. The hike up the hill wasn't to bad. I found some more batteries on the way up. What's up with that? It's like someone was going up the hill, found it to difficult, and decided to ditch four AAA batteries to shed weight, pathetic. Anyway, it was an easy hike out. There were some locals shooting up the parking lot when we got back. Not much you can do except leave. You can check out some shaky videos from the trip here, here, and here.

So if you like being cold, dirty, hungry, tired, stinky, sore, getting bug bites, itchy rashes, lacerated arms and legs, wet feet, filthy hands, and chapped lips then this is a hike you may enjoy.

If you have ever done this hike, or made it all the way to Piru, I would love to hear about it. Feel free to leave a comment, or send me an email. Take care.

02-20-2010 Agua Blanca Creek

This week we wanted to get out and see something new. If you look at the Dough Flat area on the topographic map from the USGS (Devil's Heart Peak Quad) there have a bunch of waterfalls listed. We decided that with the recent rains that this would be a good time to go and look for some of those waterfalls. We found out that the drive from the bottom of Goodenough Road to the Dough Flat trailhead is about half an hour long (just thirteen to the Tar Creek trailhead). There was a nice fifteen foot waterfall just before we got to Dough Flat.



It had been raining just a few hours before we arrived, but the ground wasn't unreasonably muddy. There is a little makeshift creekside camp just before Squaw Flat. We went off the main trail and followed a hunters trail east toward some of those waterfalls. The falls weren't that notable, but while we back there we found a toppled over oil drilling rig that has been long abandoned.



One thing I learned after this hike is that the term "squaw" is considered by some native american groups to be derogitory:

http://tinyurl.com/yjlkcln

After that diversion we got back on the main trail and made our way towards Bucksnort Spring. This is a pretty cool little spot. There is a small fire pit that had not been used in ages. And Bucksnort was flowing. We took a little time to try and get to the springhead but gave up after a few minutes.



We then started towards our next destination, Ant Camp. Ant Camp is located right where Agua Blanca Creek starts turning east toward Lake Piru and about six miles from the Dough Flat trailhead. The hike there from Bucksnort is pretty straightforward. It's just when the trail starts to descend towards Agua Blanca you realize that it's going be long hike back up.



Ant Camp was a pleasant surprise. It's nestled underneath an big old oak tree in a large valley with other smaller oaks. There's fire pit, picnic table, bbq grill, a couple of ancient bed frames, and even some horse-shoes and pins should you feel like playing a game.



While we sitting there catching our breath a bi-plane came racing up the creek from the east, looped around us a few hundred feet up and then went racing back down towards Piru. It was about 11:30 at this point and our last goal (besides getting out in one piece) was to find Saddle Skirt camp. According to the map it's supposed to be about a mile up Agua Blanca Creek from Ant Camp. The first thing I noticed about Agua Blanca is that the rocks start to change from sandstone to granite. Granite is much slicker then sandstone when it's wet so you really have to watch you footing. There are bits of trail going up-creek, but for the most part it's very much overgrown. As for Saddle Skirt camp, well we couldn't find it. When we got to the spot where it was shown the map there was nothing but a weird hole in the ground. We went searching even further up-creek to where Franks GPS indicated the camp was, but had no luck there either. It was 1:00pm at that point, which meant it was time to turn around a head back to the Jeep. We stopped briefly at Ant camp one more time to refill our water bottles and change our socks then we marched up and out of there. Four hours later we were back at the trailhead. The hike was about thirteen miles round trip.

One after thought here, if you are thinking about doing this hike I would suggest trekking poles. I forgot mine and really wish I had brought them. Take care.