06-10-2011 Gene Marshall Trail

Justin is going to be a father soon. Frank, Zach, Taylor, and I decided we should all go on a nice camping trip together before the baby gobbles up all of Justin's free time.

We eventually decided to try the Gene Marshall-Piedra Blanca National Recreation Trail. That's a long name for a long hike. Gene Marshall was Barbie-like doll back in the 1950's. The doll was so popular that in 1983 Congress named a backcountry trail after it. I swear, look it up. No, I'm kidding. From what I could gather (which wasn't much) Gene Marshall helped create the Condor Sanctuary. I have no idea when the trail was named.

The prolific author Louis L'amour wrote about this trail in his book, The Califorinos. The handsome hero, Sean Mulkerin, is led up Pine Mountain by a mystical indian to a magical cave. The nefarious bad guys pursue him with the intent to murder him. He loses them by taking the same route we do, but in the opposite direction, and then descending the Matilija Upper North Fork.

We thought it would be best to get dropped off on top of Pine Mountain and then make our way down to Piedra Blanca where we would get picked up. All the reports I've read about this trail have started at PB and then gone up the trail. We thought that that kind of uphill climbing might be a bit much for some in our group.

When we got dropped off at the Reyes Peak trailhead there was just one car (rapist van) in the parking lot. Technically the first part of this hike is on the Reyes Peak Trail, but let's not get into semantics. Almost immediately we found ourselves in an environment that we sea-level dwellers aren't used to seeing in our backyard. Gigantic Pine and Ceder trees towered over us. The air was cool, clean, and a little bit thinner then we were used to.

The Cuyama Badlands, looks rough

The trail skirted by the beginnings of Portero John and Derrydale Canyons respectively. The Jacinto Reyes National Scenic Byway (AKA: Hwy 33) was still viewable. We all made the mistake of thinking the first section of the hike was going to be "all downhill." there was a lot of up and down hiking the first couple of hours. Then the trail turns north at Derrydale Canyon and starts to descend towards Haddock Camp.

The start of Portero John Canyon

Haddock Mountain, Los Padres National Forest

I can't tell if this a Chumash mortar or just a natural phenomenon. Does anybody know? I found a few of these in the boulders up there.

I had brought only a liter of water and I ran out as we were still making our way down to Haddock. I wasn't to worried about the water situation. The ground was moist, so there had to water nearby, I thought. And I was right, soon we came upon a nice little stream and we filled our bottles. There were a lot of ladybugs acting in a very unlady-like manner. It was a ladybug orgy. The sight of thousands of bugs crawling all over each other and yourself is the stuff of nightmares. Somehow ladybugs are an exception. They seem so cute. Then just past the stream, there it was, Haddock Camp.

This is a really nice campsite. I guess it used to be a hunting lodge like Pine Mountain Lodge and I assume Topatopa Lodge. There's a ton of space for tents. There are four grills, three of which are still functional. And the creek runs right past the site, making water gathering a breeze. The trail keeps going east towards Piedra Blanca, and the sign says Beartrap Camp is three miles to the west.

This sign is made of plastic. I've never seen one like that before.

But I couldn't find the trail to Beartrap. There was a dried up creek-bed and the before mentioned creek, but I saw no trail. I'm not saying it's not there, it must be, I just couldn't find it with the little effort I put in. We decided that we were done hiking for the day, and pitched camp. Justin got the fire going, so we could grill our dinner. The wood there wasn't great. It was either punky and rotten or slightly damp. But we got it to work, and soon we were grilling Bristol Farms porterhouses. Zach brought out some Rye to get the party started. Frank made some chocolate pudding for dessert. When dinner was ready you could not find five happier fellas.

Mmm...Steak

In the morning Frank made us delicious bacon. We were eating far better then we do at home. The plan was to hike to Twin Forks or Piedra Blanca camp. Hopefully we would be able to find a spot. Those are pretty popular sites on the weekend. We packed up and started towards Three Mile Camp. We were now on the Gene Marshall Trail officially. The trail hugged the creek for the most part. It didn't take very long to get to Three Mile. This is another really nice campsite.

It has a picnic table! How is that still there? It must be the remoteness of this site that keeps away lazy goofballs that would burn this table up for firewood. Like Haddock this site has working grills. The site isn't as big as Haddock, but it is quite charming. This is a site I would like to return to someday.

We took a look at the map. I guessed it would take about an hour to get to Pine Mountain Lodge. 58 minutes later I pulled up to the Lodge. I was sort of excited to see this site. That excitement was quickly replaced with mild disappointment. Pine Mountain Lodge is kind of dumpy.

I think that little green glass thing in the tree stump is a insulator from a telegraph line that ran from PML to Reyes Peak when there were ranger stations at both sites.

There's horseshit everywhere, including the creek. I dunno, maybe I had hyped it up too much in my mind, but I just didn't think too much of this site. I looked everywhere, twice, but couldn't find the icecan stove that I read was there. We ate lunch and got ready for our last push of the day. There's a sign at the Lodge that points out the Fishbowls trail but nothing indicating the trail down to Twin Forks and PB. Just start heading down creek and you'll find the trail soon enough.

Frank took off to try a get us a spot before they were all filled. The rest of us stuck together and took our time getting down the hill. This stretch of the trail drops about 2600ft in about two or three miles. Taylor rolled his ankle about half way down. He was hurting so we stopped and made him a duct tape ankle brace and gave him my trekking poles. Taylor protested, but Justin stole his pack and carried it for him. Slowly we continued on. I was in the lead position. It was warm, but I wouldn't call it hot. The trail was easy and I was enjoying the walk, daydreaming a bit when, "Whoa, whoa, whoa!" is all could think to say when a big ol black rattlesnake dropped down from an embankment right in front of me. One more step and I would have stomped on his tail. He slithered up the side of the trail, coiled up under a bush, and started rattling. He was a handsome fellow, I'll give him that. He was too close to the trail for us to pass safely. I kept my eyes on him while Zach got me a rock. I threw it at him, not trying to hit or hurt him, but to encourage him to move along. He got the hint and slinked away. After that I was keenly focused on the trail.

We had descended enough that the pine trees were gone and poison oak was starting to show up on the trail. We had been blissfully free of the dreaded plant up to this point. I started to hear the happy yelling of kids playing in water. We must be close to Twin Forks I thought. Yup, there was the fork of the Piedra Blanca Creeks, and there was Frank sitting on a log waiting for us. He told me some Boy Scouts had taken the upper campsite, but he managed to get us the lower site. Sweet, it was 4:00 and I was stoked we were going to have a spot. The lower site is pretty cramped for five dudes. There's poison oak all over the place. But there was plenty of nice dry firewood piled up on the side of the creek. The only shade was down by the creek, so that's where we hung out for the last few hours of daylight. We made up a bunch of freeze dried dinners and passed them around. I little more Rye, and we were telling old stories.

On the second day Zach had asked me what this flower was called and I didn't remember. That night I awoke from a dream and all could remember from it were two words, "Mariposa Lily."

In the morning we got up early. We were fed and packed by 8:30. When we got to Piedra Blanca Camp there was like 15 Boy Scout leaders having a meeting. A little further down at the overflow camp there were more Scouts.

Our ride was scheduled to pick us up at noon, so we still had some time to kill. We explored the Piedra Blanca rock formation for awhile. Then we made our way to the trailhead. And that was it. We got picked up. Frank, Heidi, Zach and I made a beeline for the Ojai Beverage Company where enjoyed some good beers and some tasty sandwiches.

04-16-2011 Sespe River

Frank has wanted to do the Piedra Blanca Trailhead to Red Reef Trail for a few years now. Finally all the pieces came together and he and Heidi were all set for a four day hike this weekend. Due to my work schedule I wasn't going to be able to join them for this trek. But I decided that I could at least hike out along the Sespe Trail with them until they had to turn up the trail towards Santa Paula. We ate a tasty breakfast at Eggs & Things in Ojai. Then we headed up the 33 to the PB trailhead.

It was 9:00 and the parking lot was full of cars. The horse trailer from Thacher School was there as I've seen it so many times before. There are two creek crossing right at the start of the Sespe trail. Most of the year you can rock hop across the creek and keep your feet dry. The water was flowing too high this day and we had to wade across the creek. About ten minutes down the trail you have to cross Piedra Blanca Creek. It too was flowing too high for rock hopping. After that it's a sorta boring hike out to Bear Camp. At the Bear Camp crossing the water was waist deep. I opted to take off my pants and wade across in my skivvies.

Okay, so three years ago Frank and I tried to hike from Tar Creek to Grassy Flat. I remember it being a super hot day. We started early and didn't see anyone. It was an exhausting hike. As we were getting close to the West Fork we noticed some smoke coming up from behind a couple of rocks. We walked over and saw two men and a pitbull sitting next to a fire. The old man holding the pitbull was wearing sandles that had been made out old tire tred and some rope. I remember thinking, "How the hell did this guy get out here in those sandles?" We weren't sure what to make of these guys so we just waved and moved on.

So then last year when we did our Tar Creek loop we lost the trail back up when we got to the Sespe Camp. After we had spent an hour searching for the start of the Green Cabins road we ran into three people who were down there to do some fishing. We asked them about the trail but they didn't seem to know what we were talking about. Then it struck me, "Hey, didn't I run into you last year down here?" Yup, it was the same guy we had seen with the old man the previous year. I thought it was a funny coincidence. He offered us some Tequila, but we had to find the trail.

So back to the present. After we had crossed the Sespe at Bear Camp these three people come strolling down the trail. We exchanged greetings. Then it struck me again, "Hey, aren't you the guy we keep running into on the Sespe?" Yup, third year now that we've run into this guy. I had to laugh. I've got a feeling I'm going to cross paths with him again next year.

The Bear Camp Crossing

We dried our feet and put our boots back on. Then we started to make our way towards Kerr Spring. When we got to the spring I decided that I would make that my turnaround spot. Like 75% of my coworkers I've been sick the last few weeks. I've been getting better, but I'm still not fully healed. I just didn't feel like pushing myself any further. So I bid farewell to Frank and Heidi and then headed back towards the trailhead. I must have passed at least a dozen people headed up towards Willett on my way out.

If Frank feels like writing up a report I'll put it here. Here's some pictures from his trip.

The Harris Tunnel

California Conservation Corps working the trail

01-08-2011 Briggs Canyon

Last April, Megan, Mike, and I did a short exploration hike up a no name creek near Beaver Camp. Ever sense then I've wanted to go back, and explore some more. So Frank, and I prepared for a day-hike, and drove up the 33 to the Middle Sespe trailhead. For some reason (not thinking mostly) it didn't even occur to me that there might be snow up there. Soon after we started winding up the 33 past Ojai, we began to see tons of snow that had been plowed off the side of the road. I started cursing myself for not bringing more layers. It turned out to be fine though. Once we parked, and got moving, the actual temperature was pleasant. There was snow all over the ground.

The snow was really crunchy under our boots. The Sespe was flowing pretty briskly. The water temperature was 42F. Carefully we crossed the river. Then we made our way back up the no name creek I had been to before. Thanks to Craig Carey I now know that this creek runs through Briggs Canyon, best of luck finding a map with it labeled as such. Crunch, crunch, crunch, we hiked through the snow. After about half a mile the creek got rocky-er. There were a couple of small waterfalls that spilled into some nice little pools.

There was definitely some bushwhacking, and some stemming involved in getting up the creek. We even had to do a little edge work.

Slow and steady

We got to a narrow section in the rocks that had been frozen over. We got there at just the right time to see the melted water bubbling underneath the ice. It looked like the rock was alive.

As the elevation got higher, the snow on the ground seemed to melt away. Also the flow of the creek got less, and less. There was a small rock where the creek seemed to disappear into the ground.

The headwaters of Briggs Canyon Creek

A few hundred yards more and we were at the top of the creek. To the east I could see the sandstone formations of Rock Creek. But it was just to far away to try and connect to it. Immediately to our west was the before mentioned Rock Saddle. We tried to bushwhack over to it, but quickly lost our motivation.

The Rock Creek Rocks

Rocky Saddle

We found a good sized boulder to rest at. We had traveled a few miles, but from where we stood we could still see the 33 clearly.

As we made our way back I was struck by how beautiful the hike had been. This was one of the most pleasant day-hikes I have ever taken. Once we got past the Sespe we didn't see any signs of people, no trash, no footprints, nothing. On the way back we found a a neat little creek streaming in from the west. It had a interesting little cave.

We got back to the Sespe easily. We crossed the river, and headed back home. I loved this hike, and someday I'll come back and try to finish the loop.

Good Times

11-27-2010 Piedra Blanca Creek

The Piedra Blanca rock formation

I went up to Piedra Blanca a few months ago to do some rappelling, and scouting around. While I was up there I started down the creek, but didn't go very far. Since then I have been wanting to go back, and finish this little loop.

This weekend I felt like needed to burn off some of the pumpkin pie I ate, so I headed back up to the majestic rock formations of Piedra Blanca. The Sespe was flowing nicely at the first crossing. I walked on the trail through the rock formation, and down the hill behind it. There's a big boulder at the bottom of the hill where a seasonal creek flows through. It's there that I left the main trail, and started down towards Piedra Blanca Creek. Once I linked up with the creek I started making my way down south. My goal was to follow the creek back to the Sespe. It didn't take me to long to get the part I call the Piedra Blanca Narrows. This is where the creek cuts through the big rock formation. I was nice and cool down there. There were iced over puddles in the shade near the rocks. The narrows is a nice little section. The rocks are very craggy. There are a few nice chest deep pools for swimming or fishing. At it's narrowest point it got pretty choked with little saplings (Alder?) to the point where I had to rock hop through the middle of the creek.

Just south of the Narrows. The Sespe is a little further south.

After I had made it through the Narrows the landscape opened up into a small valley. I followed a light trail southward for a bit. I was making such good time that I decided to climb up one of the hills on the west side of the creek to get a better perspective. From up there I could see the Sespe wasn't to far away. I made my way back down, and continued south. The trail petered out, and I had to bulldoze through some of the thickest brush I've ever encountered. I was a pain in the butt. But, eventually it cleared up, and I found myself on a little trail that ran by the Thacher Cabin. I was respectful of their property, and left it alone (they have a nice set up).

Thacher Cabin

And that was it. I was back on the Sespe trail. A few minutes later, and I was back in the parking lot. I talked to a nice fellow who had spent a few nights up near Willett Hot Spring. I saw few people headed out towards Willett as well. I hope they made it there okay, because it started raining about four hours later.

That's it. I just got a new camera, so my future posts should have better quality pictures. Take care.

05-16-2010 Sespe Gauntlet

Tar Creek, Sespe, Bear Heaven, The West Fork, Topatopa Mountain

I've been thinking about this hike for a long time. I think it started a few years ago when I was looking around on the internets for info on Tar Creek when I came across Christopher Brennen's web-book. In it he describes a hike that starts at Dough Flat links up with the Sespe at Alder Creek and ends at Tar Creek (or Devil's Gate). The most intriguing part of the hike to me had to be what he called "The Squeezes", three deep pools on the Sespe that had to swam across to be passed. The idea of floating alongside my pack in the Ventura backcountry has fascinated me since I read about it. I know that Frank and Zach had made a sort of ill prepared attempt at this hike ten years ago. Only to be turned back by a raging Sespe and to be driven out of Lions Camp by the late Tony Alvis.


Sleeping Indian Rock

Instead of starting at Dough Flat, I wanted to start at the Piedra Blanca trailhead (Lions Camp)and then camp at Willett Hot Spring, then Sespe Hot Springs, then in the Sespe Narrows, and finally camp at the Tar Creek / Sespe confluence. So, armed with Brennen's directions we headed out for six days of adventure on the Sespe. The hike out to Willett is nothing special. I described it in my last post. What I didn't mention in that post was that we had stashed supply's and eight beers up there. That allowed us enough room in our packs to bring fresh food for dinner the first night. What a meal we had. Frank brought Fillet Mignon (wow!), I brought some Tri-tip and Zach brought Bulgogi. Jeremiah rolled into camp with some fresh veggies.


Zach and Jeremiah grill it up

We had so much food we were able to feed the two other people staying up there as well. One them told us he was a runner in The Coyote Two Moon, a crazy looking race. After diner we headed up to the tub and relaxed with our beers for a bit. The four of us were able to sleep in the bunk beds at the condo that night. In the morning we had a big breakfast and then got ready to head on to Sespe Hot Springs. At one of the creek crossings along the six mile trail to the Hot Springs we ran into a group of upbeat kids from Thacher School. They had spent the night at Shady Camp and were headed towards Willett. What awesome school to go to. We walked past Cottriell Flat. I didn't stop to see if the camp was still there.


Cottriell Flat

Right as we got into Hot Spring Canyon it started to rain lightly. We made our way up to the Hot Springs and pitched camp at spot with a couple of palm trees. Frank measured the temperature, and the hot water bubbles out of the side the canyon walls at 189 degrees Fahrenheit! Right next to the Palm Tree Camp are a couple of one person pools that were a nice 106 degrees, perfect for a nice morning soak. It continued to drizzle rain throughout the night. I was a little scared that we might have to postpone going into the Sespe. The threat of flash floods is real. But the rain was light, and didn't really raise the water level at all. In the morning I got up and took a nice bath in one of the hot pools. Jeremiah earned canyoneer of the week honors for packing out a bunch of Keystone Light cans that some jerk had left behind.


Relaxing in scalding hot water

Right where the Upper Sespe Trail starts to head up over a saddle towards Shady Camp there's a sign that says, "Devil's Gate: 15" this is where you should take off your hiking boots and put on your water shoes (I'd also recommend some heavy wool or neoprene socks).


A good sign

We spent the next five hours walking down the middle of the Sespe. I think trying to find a way through here without getting your feet wet is next to impossible. Slogging through the creek was actually a lot of fun. The water was only about shin high most of the time. After a couple of hours we could feel the cold water of Alder Creek mixing in with the Sespe. We saw our only Condor of the trip circling above the Stone Corral.



Contemplating my next move

Finally we reached the campsite described in Brennen' guide. It's actually not a campsite per say, but more of a beach with a stone fire ring.



Overhang Falls Camp

There was plenty of room for the four of us. The site was so nice, that we decided to spend the next day there too. So we spent our forth day just exploring and swimming in the canyon. Late in the afternoon two other hikers passed through (Jen and Wes? Sorry, I forgot your names). They were real cool, and we would see them a few more times before our trip was over.


Sunset on The Sespe

That night it was really windy. None of us got a good nights sleep. Part of it was the wind, and at least for me, it was partly the excitement of the next days hike keeping me up. We packed up early. I lined my bag with a garbage bag in case I took a dunking in the creek. Soon after we started out, we passed by the two other hikers at their camp. They had had a close call with a falling boulder in the middle of the night, and seemed pretty shaken up by it. We wished each other luck, and our group continued on. The area near the First Squeeze is known as the Sespe Gorge. The power of the Sespe is on full display here.





The creek picks up speed and thunders over the boulders into a narrow chute, the First Squeeze, then spills out into a wide pool. We were able to get through this section without swimming. As a matter of fact we were able to get through all the "squeezes" without swimming. I don't think the water was low, but rather the dep pools had been filled with sediment. I don't know if these will get washed out when a really heavy storm hits, or maybe that's what filled them up. We were all a bit disappointed that we didn't have to float our bags and swim the narrow sections.


The First Squeeze


The Second Squeeze

We had been taking turns carrying my 3lb inflatable boat for nothing. I guess it's better safe than sorry, though. As we trudged on through the Sespe we refilled our bottles with water springing right from the base of Topatopa mountain.


Pure clean water


Approaching the Third Squeeze

The river water got cloudy-er as we neared Grassy Flat. And there's nothing flat about Grassy Flat. It's just a lot of rocks and brush. The West Fork is so overgrown I didn't even notice it as we passed by. When we found several nasty open pits of bubbling oil seeping into the creek we knew we were getting close to Tar Creek.


An open oil pit

As we made our way closer to our camp I turned back to see how everyone was doing. Right at that moment, maybe a few hundred feet away from us and a black jet roared through the canyon at a ridiculous speed, pulled a high-G bank straight up near Tar Creek Falls, did a couple of barrel rolls, leveled out, and then shot off east like a bat out of hell. The sound of it rushing by was incredibly loud, and scared the piss out of me.

Soon after that we got to the two gigantic boulders that I call Patty and Selma. They block the way to Tar Creek. Where they meet in the creek they form a formidably powerful waterfall. The only way past them is to balance your way down a log placed on the east side of the creek. A few minutes later we were at the Tar Creek camp. Like Willett we had hiked in a few weeks before and stashed some beers and food. So that night as we ate up the rest of our freeze dried meals and drank our hard earned beer. We talked about what we wanted to eat when we got back civilization.




The next morning we packed up our stuff for the last time. We made sure our camp was completely clean. My policy is to pack out any trash (within reason) I find in the Condor Sanctuary. Zach dubbed the trail up from the Sespe to Tar Creek the Donkeyballs Trail because it's such a bastard. Jeremiah was able to cut over from the trail to the bottom falls of Tar Creek. We all met up at the Cascades.


Grace in motion

At first we were the only ones there. Jeremiah and I cleaned up the make-shift campsites at the Cascades. We found a bunch of beer cans, a disturbing number of Blow-Pop wrappers, and even an old rope. As we made our way up the Tar Creek hill I kept finding more wrappers and cigarette butts. And then at the top of the hill our ride was waiting for us. A few minutes later Wes and Jen rolled up. We had made it. Thirty some-odd miles (twelve or so in the water)over six days. I thought I would feel totally beat after such a long haul. But to the contrary, I felt supercharged.




So to sum it all up, I had a great time. Despite not having to swim through the squeezes this was a really rewarding trip. We all worked as a team, helping each other out when we needed to. In the past I was proud of making it through the Stone Corral, and "finding" the Upper Matilija Falls was pretty cool, and I've completed some other hard hikes, but this was the most satisfying hike I've ever done. I'd love to try it starting from Dough Flat some time.